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Junagadh city, in the state of Gujarat, lies some 300 km from Ahmedabad on the southern tip of the Saurashtra peninsula. An ancient fortified city, with a chequered past, it has an interesting mix of mosques, Hindu temples, Buddhist monuments, Gothic archways and beautiful mansions – not forgetting the splendid Jain Temples on Girnar hill (4 km east). The town gets its name from the ‘old fort’, which encircles the medieval part of the city. Junagadh, then called Girnar, was the capital of Gujarat under the Mauryas from the 4th century BC until the reign of Emperor Ashoka who embraced Buddhism. After his death (c 226 BC), it passed into the successive control of the Kshatrapas, Guptas and finally the Chudasanas. Hindu dominance lasted till around the middle ages, when Muslim invaders established their supremacy. It remained under Muslim rule till India’s independence. Then, in keeping with the wishes of the local population, and contrary to those of the ruling Nawab of Junagadh, it became part of the Indian Union of States. You could start your tour of the city by visiting ‘Uparkot’, or ‘Upper Fort’, an ancient fort in the eastern part. It is an imposing monument believed to date back to 319BC when Chandragupta built it. The fort has a long and bloody history and was laid siege to 16 times. The fort was ultimately abandoned in the 7/8th centuries and the surrounding jungles reclaimed it. An ornate triple entrance gateway leads to the ruins inside where lies the ‘Nilamtope’- a cannon acquired by the Nawab of Junagadh from a Turkish sultan, the ‘Adi Chadi Vav’ and ‘Naughan Kuva’ – two step wells, the latter with a superb staircase winding down to the water level over 52 metres below and 1500-year old Buddhist caves. The Jami Masjid is an old mosque whose high roof is supported by 140 pillars many of which were taken from the Chudasana Palace.A visit to the boldly decorated ‘Maqbara’ on Mahatma Gandhi road would be time well spent. This is a stangroup of mausoleums built for the Muslim rulers in the 19th century. The most opulent of the lot is the tomb of Mahabat Khan I built in 1892. The mausoleumds out with its imposing carved silver doors, its minarets and its winding staircases. You could also stop off at the Durbar Hall Museum where its collection of memorabilia from the royal courts, silver chains, thrones, crystal chandeliers, palanquins and elephant howdahs makes interesting viewing. On the way to Girnar you pass the famous Ashoka’s Edicts, a huge boulder engraved with 14 edicts of emperor Ashoka dating back to 250 BC. These are written in the Brahmi script of the Pali language and encourage people to follow the tenets of Buddhism. On the same boulder you also see inscriptions in Sanskrit, which were added by later rulers describing recurrent floods in the area, which destroyed the embankments of the nearby Sudershan Lake (which no longer exists). The high point of your stop in Junagadh would be a visit to Girnar Hill. It is one of two hills most sacred to the Jains and is topped by a cluster of 16 beautifully carved marble shrines. Starting from the sacred Damodar Kund, you climb 10,000 steps to reach the summit. The climb will take at least two hours. So do make a very early start (preferably at dawn) and beat the sun! Mercifully, there are several refreshment stalls along the way! Girnar is one of the holiest places in Gujarat, situated near Junagadh at a distance of 327 from Ahmedabad. It is a holy place and an important pilgrimage for both Hindus and Jains. There are a number of temples located here, which have converted it into a township of temples. Amidst the lush green Gir Forest, the mountain range serves as the hub of religious activity. Apart from this, there is a mosque attracting many Muslim pilgrims to the place. This has made Girnar a perfect example of unity in diversity in India. The five peaks, crowned by sixteen beautifully carved and sculptured marble shrines on the western flank of the mountain forms one of the most beautifully situated group of Jain temples in India. Girnar temples present a true blend of art, religion and devotion. The Jain temples at Girnar attract devotees of both Shwetambar of Jainism.
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